Chef's memoir tells of fight against tongue cancer (AP)

Monday, February 28, 2011 7:01 AM By dwi

"Life, on the Line: A Chef's Story of Chasing Greatness, Facing Death, and Redefining the Way We Eat" (Gotham Books, $27.50), by Grant Achatz and Nick Kokonas: Grant Achatz had already won acclaim as digit of the nation's top chefs when he was diagnosed, at geezerhood 33, with modern cancer of the tongue. The recommended communication was devastating: A doc would remove his tongue, lymph nodes and a assets of his jaw. There would be chemotherapy and radiation, and ease his quantity of activity would exclusive be 50 percent.

Achatz decided to reject treatment. Even if he survived, he wouldn't hit a chronicle he wanted. He couldn't be a chef without a tongue; he couldn't prepare if he couldn't taste.

It whatever ways, it was his playing relation who ransomed him. Nick Kokonas researched treatments and pushed Achatz to see specialist after specialist. Then he overturned to the media. An article in the metropolis Tribune got Achatz into a pioneering information at the University of Chicago, where doctors utilised chemotherapy and irradiation to shrink the tumor before surgery, making it doable to spend the chef's ness and his life.

Achatz and Kokonas recount his battle with cancer in "Life, on the Line," which is nearly certain to be digit of this year's top-selling matter memoirs. Achatz already has a brawny mass among foodies. Gourmet magazine titled his metropolis edifice Alinea the prizewinning in the commonwealth in 2006, and Achatz received the James Beard Foundation's honor for unpaid chef in 2008. His news also is sure to get a mass among cancer survivors and those battling the disease.

But don't let that ready you from datum the book. This is an autobiography that rises above both those genres. Achatz's news is a compelling tale of artistic genius that module make you cry and, if you are in the metropolis area, perhaps shell out $200 a mortal to eat his food.

"Life" starts, as Achatz's did, with his immatureness in a small municipality in nowhere Michigan. His parents owned a edifice and Achatz, an exclusive child, grew up cooking. By broad school, when his prizewinning friend was vision of air plane jets, Achatz had exclusive digit goal — to possess a enthusiastic restaurant.

Achatz had the requisite impact principle and self-confidence bordering on arrogance. He graduated from the world-renowned Culinary Institute of America, where he institute the another students lacking in dedication. Then he spent a few months existence berated in the kitchen of the unreal Charlie Trotter.

He couldn't verify it. Achatz writes, "I desired one-on-one instance and mentoring. ... but instead I got ass-kickings."

The lawmaking is celebrity because Achatz after dresses down whatever of his possess chefs in what seems to be a kindred fashion. This is not a man who module ever hearty your heart.

Achatz institute his intellect in saint writer of Napa Valley's The land Laundry, went on to overhaul Trio in suburban metropolis and then created Alinea as part of a wave of chefs interested in molecular gastronomy — the application of technological techniques to cooking.

He unsealed Alinea with Kokonas, a derivatives trader who retired in his 30s and had been a regular at Trio for years. The latter part of "Life" is told from both their perspectives, and while the transition is rough at prototypal because you've dropped so unfathomable into Achatz's psyche, the second vocalise lends a welcome dimension to the story. While Achatz withdrew into himself during his fight with cancer, Kokonas kept things going. He recounts how the chef's illness affected everyone around him.

Achatz is the category of creator who sinks everything into his work. He writes most neglecting his ex-girlfriend, with whom he had digit children, and his gratitude that his prototypal son was born on a period the edifice was closed. Again, not very heartwarming.

But, much things strength be forgiven in a enthusiastic creator consumed by his vision, and Achatz sure seems to be that. One of the most impressive aspects of "Life" is the way in which he leads the reverend along the train of thought that produced a enthusiastic dish.

"I remembered the wine glasses breaking," he writes, "and the odor of the raspberries. And meet same that it happens. Raspberries are breakable same fine glassware, maybe even country same stained glass. They odor same roses, so we'll pair them with roses."

Brilliant.

"Life" ends with Achatz and Kokonas thinking a newborn restaurant, Next, which is due to open in metropolis this year. Achatz notes with humor and appreciative humor that the edifice gave him an respond when grouping inquiring most his recovery asked, "What's next?"


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